03 Feb 2010 @ 8:08 AM 
 

Beer Wars: A Review in Hindsight

 

I sat down to watch Beer Wars last night. It’s interesting doing this now, almost a year after it’s been released, seeing the original reviews, the reactions, and seeing what’s happened over the past year. As a note, one of the first columns that I wrote on this blog was about Beer Wars – actually about the hype surrounding it which, at the time, was kind of rubbing me the wrong way. Looking back, I’ll admit that one of the reasons that the hype was bothering me was because I wasn’t able to actually go participate in the one day release. I’m now glad that I didn’t, because I’m sure that had I viewed it then, I would have seen it entirely differently.

Yesterday, due to a new distribution contract with Warner Bros., Beer Wars hit streaming Netflix and I was finally able to get a look at it, albeit a year removed.

Allow me to start here: I enjoyed it.

In fact, I enjoyed it a lot more than I originally thought I was going to. The first 10-or-so minutes of it, in particular, I thought were playful, fun, and educational and really showed the ridiculous scale of the beer industry quite well. Jim Koch’s regular statement of, “Bud spills more beer in a single day than I make in an entire year” (featured in the film) is very apparent here and that message alone is worth watching the movie for. I wish the entire film had carried the tone of the first ten minutes, even so much as to carry the cartoon Anat Baron all the way through.

From a “I’m critiquing this movie” standpoint, I think Beer Wars suffered a little from not really knowing what it was. It wanted to educate, and then it wanted to criticize. At times it was a little unfair in its criticism, sometimes ignoring reality in favor of a flashy point and in general I’m okay with that if that’s your modus operandum – but it clashed with the educational and feel-good parts of the film. I found myself thinking that if Beer Wars had merely presented the facts of the scale of the industry alongside the wonderful story of how craft beer has evolved, without trying to be edgy and in-your-face and make points against BMC (and especially Anheuser-Busch), that it would have carried its point much more effectively. In the end, it felt like an Anheuser-Busch critique vehicle wrapped around a warm and fuzzy story about Sam Calagione with a little bit of feeling embarrassed for Rhonda Kallman on the side.

Like I say – I enjoyed it and I would recommend this movie to others. I wonder at how it would play to people who are not beer geeks. I will probably never know. I’m not sure I know non-beer-geeks that I haven’t at least somewhat indoctrinated, anyway.

I cannot say enough about Sam Calagione in this film. He makes the movie and without him it would not have been nearly as compelling. Nevermind that he’s the GQ posterchild of craft beer, the guy is so damn charismatic and.. and.. likable that it’s impossible not to root for him. When he’s sitting there with his kids climbing all over his shoulders with that goofy grin of his, it puts the, “Yeah, so I had to put my family into a crippling amount of debt to try to chase this dream” into harsh relief and you want nothing more than for him to succeed. He was the perfect centerpiece for this movie.

I wish there was more Dick Yuengling in it. He just makes me smile. Go get ‘em Dick!

I cannot, however, figure out the choice of Rhonda Kallman and Moonshot here. It looks, in the movie, like a failing brand from the get-go. The problem is that the film doesn’t convince me that the reason that she’s failing is because she’s getting roughed up by A-B. It sounds like a gimmicky product, she even sells it like a gimmicky product in the parts of the movie where she’s looking for investments ($6 mil! Holy moly. I’ll take the $800,000, please.). I don’t know. Maybe my opinion is colored by the fact that I know that New Century, who makes Moonshot, also makes Edison Light which is my second least favorite beer in the entire world (behind Leinenkugel Sunset Wheat which, I swear, tastes exactly like circus peanuts). Sorry Rhonda, I’m just not a fan. I’d feel more empathy if I thought it was a great beer.

The one moment where I really wanted to back Rhonda up was a scene in a bar, where some jackass patron who is trying the free beer she’s given him asks her, “Does your husband know you’re out here doing this?” right before another one asks, “Will this cure whiskey tits?” I never felt as bad for her as when she laughed along with them like it was all some sort of joke when by all rights those guys needed a good solid cock punch.

“Does your husband know you’re out here doing this?” Really? You sexist assbag!

Anyway – without getting lost in these details, I went into watching this with a couple of questions in my mind:

1) In retrospect, did the movie live up to the enormous amount of hype that was generated?

I think that the enormous amount of hype actually hurt this movie. It had such an onslaught of publicity that I think it needed to be Gone with the Wind to live up to the expectations of critics within the beer industry, much less traditional media. With all of the buzz, it needed to absolutely blow your mind to be treated with anything except let-down afterward. It’s really a shame. There’s a good story here and there are good messages, but because it wasn’t Citizen Kane it didn’t get the attention it deserved after release.

On the other hand, because Ms. Baron was working on getting this out without a distribution deal, because it was being released in the one-time-special-event manner that it was, I’m not sure I can come up with a better way to have marketed it. You had one shot, you had to make sure people were there or it was going to be an enormous financial loss. That’s rough.

With any luck, Warner Bros. will be able to help market it outside of the craft beer community which, frankly, is not the audience that needs to see this movie – it’s preaching to the converted.

2) Why was the BA so eager to support prior to screening it, and what, if anything, did they gain by it?

At the time of the Beer Wars release I kept asking myself: Why are so many prominent members of the BA wrapping themselves up in the promotion of this movie when, by their own admission, they have not screened it?

Watching it, it hit me: If I was filmed for a movie, and I knew that I was going to be on the big screen, I sure as hell would promo the shit out of it, too! In the grand scheme of things, they knew that the movie was going to be complimentary to their cause and their industry because they had spoken about the point of the film with Ms. Baron. At that point pushing this movie was a no-brainer; it was good publicity for yourself, your company, and the industry as a whole, regardless of whether or not the movie was brilliant.

I was surprised to find out that there were only small clips of Charlie Papazian, Greg Koch, Maureen Ogle and the Alström Brothers in this, though, considering how prominently they all featured in the promotion (and live discussion on release night). Good personalities! I’m glad they were used in the live discussion; it led me to believe that I would see more of them in the film than I did. I wish that a recording of the live discussion would have been available via Netflix.

So, what, if anything, did the BA gain? Awareness. But I think that’s it – not that that’s small. However, I feel that Beer Wars drew a harsh picture of the three-tier system and distribution that I’m not sure is necessarily in the best interest of the BA. The three-tier system and wide distribution networks have a lot to do with the fact that I’m currently able to drink Stone Arrogant Bastard and New Belgium Fat Tire here in North Carolina. Both Greg Koch (Stone) and Kim Jordan (New Belgium) were briefly featured in the film and I’m sure that they would both tell you that without distribution agreements that would not be possible.

She took a (warranted) passing shot at the tactics and bullshittery used by some distributors, but rather than doing an expose on slimy (and illegal) business practices, we got a short montage of Ms. Baron hunting for purportedly mythical Neo-Prohibitionists which, I might argue, are actually a real threat to the industry.

Overall, however, I think the BA – and the craft beer industry in general – receives a net gain here, even if just off of the first 10 minutes of the film, and the crazy freakin’ title that shows up on top of the Dogfish Head introduction segment: “Dogfish Head: 0.0002% Market Share.” I may have missed a 0 there. Regardless, it was REALLY effective.

3) What’s the best way to follow this up?

Yes, I’d like to see more. Maybe Beer Skirmishes. I’m just not a huge fan of war.

I think that, in actuality, there were 2 or 3 documentaries all smushed into one here and that either through lack of focus or lack of funding we got this movie. Here’s what I think we potentially have inside Beer Wars:

– The story of the craft beer industry, its inception and growth and a straightforward honest comparison between craft beer and BMC. ie – show off the little guys, and show just how little they are and what a disadvantage they are at without having to trash BMC. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar and all that. I suspect we’ll get a lot of this from the upcoming Beer Pioneers.

– An expose of the tactics of the less scrupulous members of the distribution industry in comparison with the distributors who are now focusing on craft and trying to play by the rules.

– A politico documentary of BMC lobbying vs. Beer Institute lobbying vs. BA lobbying. None of it’s pretty (lobbying just isn’t), but it would be fascinating to see where they differ and where they all overlap (and I’m sure they do).

Any single one of those could be a compelling documentary and some of them, if done correctly, could actually be a driving force for change in the industry. I hope that Ms. Baron will find success through her Warner Bros. distribution contract and will come away with the funding to pursue one of these topics in depth.

In verbose conclusion I say: Go forth and watch this movie. Most especially, make sure that those you know that aren’t huge beer geeks watch this movie and be ready to go to the bar and talk it over with them over a pint of good, locally made, craft beer.

 

Responses to this post » (8 Total)

 
  1. beerinator says:

    The hype beforehand and at every stage of dvd/netflix release since the movie came out has definitely soured me even more than the initial screening did.

    The live discussion was one of the more painful to watch parts. Was the Live intro in the netflix version? It really set a horribly painful stage for the release night version that I saw. I guess maybe at some point I will watch it again, but I am not really looking forward to it.

  2. erik says:

    The live discussion was nowhere to be seen, so I didn’t have it to color my view at all – my only knowledge of it is things like this where people keep telling me how awkward it was. Maybe that’s why it wasn’t on the Netflix release. ;)

    Without the hype I think it would have been received much better.

  3. Steve says:

    Like you, I did not see this film when it was released (although it was being shown at a few places around town) but I did watch it yesterday. There was a few interesting facts sprinkled throughout the film, but I didn’t find it overly interesting.

    Sam is always a great character to feature when talking about craft brewing and its no surprise to see him as part of this film. However, I’m not sure I’d really consider Rhonda to even be in the craft beer industry. Craft beer drinkers are not her target customers and definitely not the ones that drink beers from Dogfish Head. She is simply running a marketing company for a gimmicky product. But I agree, that bar patron was a huge douche to her.

    I would like to have seen more examples from a variety of small craft breweries around the country on how Bud/Miller/Coors or their large distributors have directly interfered with them if that’s what the film was supposed to be about. Talk with a startup brewery that actually failed because of it or one that got bought out by them. Or maybe find a small startup brewery and follow their progress as they attempt to find a distributor, make sales, get shelf space, do promotions, etc.

  4. erik says:

    See – this is why I don’t think that we (beer geeks) are the correct audience for this film. The lessons about A-B are fairly basic, and we’re familiar with them. I think that the people who need to see this are the uninitiated.

    Unfortunately, due to the manner of release, we’re the ones that are going to need to push the non-beer-geeks toward it, and I don’t think we’re compelled to do so because the movie doesn’t necessarily resonate with us.

  5. Steve says:

    Yeah, I’d agree with that, but who else would actually pay to see a film about the beer industry then beer geeks? And there isn’t anything in that film that’s going to make the average Bud/Miller/Coors drinker put down their macro light lager, stand up on their bar-stool and declare what an evil company A-B is and vow to only drink craft beer from now on.

  6. Anat Baron says:

    Erik:
    I appreciate your thoughts about the film. As you know, all films are subjective and reflect the viewer’s perspective. And while it’s easy to criticize about what should have been added or deleted from the movie, it is just that. A movie made through my eyes. I took the risk, put up the money and made it happen. I’m sorry that craft beer geeks wanted a different film but frankly that movie would not have received mainstream distribution.
    And judging by the plethora of emails, tweets and Facebook posts, I’d say that the film is reaching a mainstream audience who appreciate its bigger themes. Right now it’s #3 rentals and #5 sales in docs on iTunes and #50 in all films (surrounded I may add by big studio films).
    If craft beer drinkers truly want the community to get bigger, then spreading the word to their non beer geek friends will help open the door.
    But again, it’s easy to be the naysayer.
    Anat

  7. erik says:

    It is easy to be the naysayer – and I don’t think I am being so, here, but trying to offer my honest and balanced opinion. Maybe there’s a little nay in there, but I think there’s a fair amount of yea.

    I do think that you made an overall good product, and I think that you were a victim of circumstance in terms of your release. In order to pull off the one-time release – which appeared to be your best option – you needed to cater that release to the crowd that wasn’t necessarily the best audience for the movie. And I totally agree that the movie that craft beer geeks want to see would see even less distribution potential. After all, they’re less than 5% of the market, right?

    I honestly think that it would have been received differently had some company had the cajones to pick you up and distribute the movie on even a limited release basis.

    I think that Beer Wars has a lot more merit than, say, Beer Fest or whatever crap TV shows come out about beer from time to time (Beer Nutz comes to mind) that really appear to celebrate drunkenness rather than the artisanal values of the craft industry or approach craft beer from a, “Wow, beer is good?” kind of angle.

    I appreciate you coming by (again!) – I hope your Warner Bros contract does well for you so that we can see more in the future. Maybe with Beer Wars seeing larger release, we can see some of the offerings that craft beer geeks might crave hitting smaller niche markets with grassroots word-of-mouth growth and all that.

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