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 03 Aug 2010 @ 8:37 AM 
 

Crappy industrial lager by any other name still tastes like ass.

 

Let me introduce you to one of my largest pet peeves: The feeling that just because I’m eating a food from a certain culture or country that I somehow need to be served the crappy industrial lager of that country.

Chinese food? Tsingtao. Japanese food? Sapporo. Mexican food? Corona. Italian food? Birra Moretti. Indian food? Kingfisher.

Not to mention Lion Lager, Castle Lager, Aguila, Tiger, Singha, Kirin, Sol, Dos Equis, Tusker, Orion, Red Stripe, Jinlan, Peroni, Carib, Tecate, Modelo, Pacifico, Taj Mahal, San Miguel, Presidente, Brahma, Saigon, Chang, Saku, Bali Hai, and on and on and on.

That’s just a few – a very, very, very few – of the hundreds of brands of light industrial lager made ’round the world, branded specifically for the country that they’re being sold in, and then served to me in a restaurant under the auspices that this will somehow go well with the food because the name sounds right.

Can we stop this, please? It’s sad and embarrassing. Pair by flavor, not by name. It suggests that the beer is a decoration rather than a beverage.

Let me tell you why my favorite sushi restaurant is my favorite:

Is it the best sushi around? It’s good, but not the best.

Is it the always-on buy-one-get-one-free special? Eh, nice, but an excuse to overcharge.

Is it the fact that have the most authentic decor? Not even remotely.

Is it the swarthy staff of Latinos assuming that most Americans won’t be able to tell the difference between South American and South Asian? Well. That is pretty amusing.

Is it because of the flavorful range of sakes? Close, but no cigar.

It is because I can get craft beer there that actually goes well with the sushi. I can get good sushi with good beer. Not great sushi with shitty beer. Not shitty sushi with great beer. But good sushi with good beer. Is that too much to ask?

Would it be so hard for a Mexican restaurant carry an IPA? The food is practically made for it.

I don’t want to suggest that there are no well-made international lagers. There are, and they have their place in cuisine and fine drinking. But the majority – the vast majority – of “international” beers out there are nothing more than the same old crap you get everywhere else: watered down, DMS-y, over-carbonated, light lager. What’s worse? They’re all made by the same 3 companies and just marketed differently. I would be shocked to find out that there are anything but superficial differences in the recipes.

So, come on restaurants, let’s cut the crap. I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt and guess that you’re in business because you think the food you serve tastes good. So why would you serve something less than excellent as a beverage to go with your cuisine? You can put the crappy international lager on the menu if it makes you feel more authentic, but support your local brewery and save a spot in your cooler for some actual good, flavorful beer that compliments your food. Your diners will thank you.

Tags Tags: ,
Categories: beer-food pairing, industry, marketing
Posted By: erik
Last Edit: 03 Aug 2010 @ 08 37 AM

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Responses to this post » (15 Total)

 
  1. notaro says:

    mmm, industrial lager

  2. As a tip, Cinco de Mayo on Franklin and Estes has a great craft beer selection. Well, great for a Mexican restaurant. Say 20 taps or so. http://www.chapelhillncmexicanrestaurant.com/

  3. erik says:

    They do! I went there on your recommendation. :)

    Funny story: The last time I went there we had a waiter who really didn’t speak much English, and I ordered an Arrogant Bastard and he kinda looked surprised, and mumbled something quickly and scurried off.

    A few minutes later, a girl came over to the table and said, “Uhh.. can you tell me what you ordered? I don’t think he understood what you said.”

    Poor guy. I just wanted a beer.

  4. Sean W says:

    Well said! I agree 100% and hope some restaurants take note of this request.

  5. Big Tex says:

    And this typically why I refrain from ordering a beer when I go eat ethnic food: the beer sucks. Once in a while, Mexican food will find me with a Negra Modelo.

  6. ingrate says:

    Seconded, Big Tex. When I order from south of the border it is either Negra Modelo or Xingu (Brazilian Black Lager).

  7. AND…there in is the problem…unfortunately.

    Many restaurants will keep on selling crap beer (though I have to admit I don’t exactly mind a Sapporo from time to time) simply because it sells, is advertised very well, and in most people’s mind…seems to fit “perfectly” just the same way a Bud Light fits into the club/football/everything else scene.

    I hate it too, because despite the fact that I can find a Sapporo refreshing, it doesn’t match Sushi at all. Corona’s don’t match Mexican food…what the hell is a Corona anyway?!?!?! And so on…

    The problem isn’t the lack of great beer options, it’s the lack of people knowing about them OR far worse yet in my opinion, caring about it.

    And let’s be honest…putting a Rouge or Oskar Blue’s beer on the beer list at most places and especially chains just isn’t going to sell to well unless it’s pushed just right.

    Either way, great post and VERY much agreed :)

    Ilya

  8. Steven says:

    I think a lot of restaurants (Well…at least in the DC area) are starting to catch the grasp of craft beer and food. Of course no craft beer will beat out a crappy light lager, but more and more people are realizing that there is choice out there, and within time, I think they will benefit from a diverse beer selection, just like they do with wine.

    • Steven,

      I seriously agree with your statement there!

      We can see that happening all over the craft beer culture and all over the country with beer drinkers everywhere. You can only sell crap for so long until people start catching on. Every time I visit a speciality shop, Whole Foods etc, I can see it more and more….

      …People hanging around the beer aisle which is virtually all craft beer, choosing and trying different craft beers from all over.

      It’s not catching on nearly the same here in Dallas as in DC, BUT down in Austin for example, it’s ramping up more and more.

      Would I love to see more and more craft beers make the list at a lot of local restaurants? Hell yes! Is it going to happen? Perhaps…and we can only hope that it does…

      P.S. It would be great to see things such as beer & food pairing suggestions just as there are wine on the menu’s, walls, from waiters…etc…BUT only if it’s good beer ;)

      Ilya

  9. Robert says:

    I took a trip to Kinston NC this weekend with some college friends to check out Mother Earth’s taproom, and while we were there we were guided over to the Chef and the Farmer for dinner. This is a fantastic place serving up gourmet food and has an equally impressive beer list to go along with the meal (the wine list is probably even more impressive but I know so little about wine I dont dare to comment on it). There were plenty of GOOD bottles to choose anything from a good crisp kolsch to a big double IPA. It does suck that so many places have and will continue to serve crap, but at least one place is getting it right, and hopefully others will follow.

  10. detlefchef says:

    Ever since we opened Jujube, we didn’t serve Asian beers for all the reasons given above. Long before I got as into craft beers as I am now, I did know one thing, Tsing Tao sucks ass as a beer. Chinese Pilsners aren’t all that bad when you’re in China. Mostly because it’s hot and they’re cold. Well, that and that’s all we had to drink. But out here, I had a ton of great craft beers to choose from.

    Finally, after 5 years of people basically heckling me about how silly it was to have an Asian restaurant with no Asian beers, I found one that wasn’t half bad. Saigon. Mind you, I’ll drink pretty much anything else on the list instead. On the beer list, where I write something about each beer, I basically said, “There you go, here’s your Asian beer.” It sells OK, mostly it saves me the hassle of going through the song and dance.

    I’m proud that my Mexican place Dos Perros has about as interesting a craft beer selection as you’ll find around and doesn’t sell Corona. We do sell Pacifico, Bohemia, Carta Blanca, and Negro Modelo, but I actually like those beers.

  11. @Detlefchef

    Thanks for that post! It’s nice to see a response and a side from an actual restaurant owner…or another one I should say.

    I can’t say I like Pacifico or Saigon, but I have to have respect for that the fact that you just won’t serve crap beer if you really believe it’s crap despite everything else.

    Hats off to you!

    ilya

  12. detlefchef says:

    First off, in fairness, we’re a bit “higher end” than most Asian or Mexican places.

    Also, I think Pacifico has it’s place, you know, lawnmower beer. When you really need water but would prefer a beer. Working years in the kitchen, one always holds a place in one’s heart for a beer like this. There’s not an IPA made that tastes as good as a cheap lager when it’s your first beer after the shift. So it has sentimental value for me. Well, that and we sell the hell out of it. I’ve certainly learned the hard way that not everyone is looking to have their mind blown and sometimes it’s just easier to take someone’s money and give them what they want than try to educate them.

    Saigon, that’s another story. I have to admit that I’m annoyed by the fact that I’ve been bullied into selling it. Frankly, I basically tried all the Asian crap that people brought me until I found one I didn’t loathe. Unfortunate, really, considering that every other beverage on our list is held to a much higher standard. I mean, neither our craft beer or wine lists are long enough to include all the beers or wines I like, yet I waste a space on a beer I can merely tolerate (well, two actually because I have to have a light beer as well and carry HPL).

    Oh well, those who know go to the good stuff and those who don’t…

  13. Bubba says:

    Hey how much ass have you tasted???

  14. erik says:

    More than I’d care to admit.

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