03 Feb 2010 @ 8:08 AM 

I sat down to watch Beer Wars last night. It’s interesting doing this now, almost a year after it’s been released, seeing the original reviews, the reactions, and seeing what’s happened over the past year. As a note, one of the first columns that I wrote on this blog was about Beer Wars – actually about the hype surrounding it which, at the time, was kind of rubbing me the wrong way. Looking back, I’ll admit that one of the reasons that the hype was bothering me was because I wasn’t able to actually go participate in the one day release. I’m now glad that I didn’t, because I’m sure that had I viewed it then, I would have seen it entirely differently.

Yesterday, due to a new distribution contract with Warner Bros., Beer Wars hit streaming Netflix and I was finally able to get a look at it, albeit a year removed.

Allow me to start here: I enjoyed it.

In fact, I enjoyed it a lot more than I originally thought I was going to. The first 10-or-so minutes of it, in particular, I thought were playful, fun, and educational and really showed the ridiculous scale of the beer industry quite well. Jim Koch’s regular statement of, “Bud spills more beer in a single day than I make in an entire year” (featured in the film) is very apparent here and that message alone is worth watching the movie for. I wish the entire film had carried the tone of the first ten minutes, even so much as to carry the cartoon Anat Baron all the way through.

From a “I’m critiquing this movie” standpoint, I think Beer Wars suffered a little from not really knowing what it was. It wanted to educate, and then it wanted to criticize. At times it was a little unfair in its criticism, sometimes ignoring reality in favor of a flashy point and in general I’m okay with that if that’s your modus operandum – but it clashed with the educational and feel-good parts of the film. I found myself thinking that if Beer Wars had merely presented the facts of the scale of the industry alongside the wonderful story of how craft beer has evolved, without trying to be edgy and in-your-face and make points against BMC (and especially Anheuser-Busch), that it would have carried its point much more effectively. In the end, it felt like an Anheuser-Busch critique vehicle wrapped around a warm and fuzzy story about Sam Calagione with a little bit of feeling embarrassed for Rhonda Kallman on the side.

Like I say – I enjoyed it and I would recommend this movie to others. I wonder at how it would play to people who are not beer geeks. I will probably never know. I’m not sure I know non-beer-geeks that I haven’t at least somewhat indoctrinated, anyway.

I cannot say enough about Sam Calagione in this film. He makes the movie and without him it would not have been nearly as compelling. Nevermind that he’s the GQ posterchild of craft beer, the guy is so damn charismatic and.. and.. likable that it’s impossible not to root for him. When he’s sitting there with his kids climbing all over his shoulders with that goofy grin of his, it puts the, “Yeah, so I had to put my family into a crippling amount of debt to try to chase this dream” into harsh relief and you want nothing more than for him to succeed. He was the perfect centerpiece for this movie.

I wish there was more Dick Yuengling in it. He just makes me smile. Go get ’em Dick!

I cannot, however, figure out the choice of Rhonda Kallman and Moonshot here. It looks, in the movie, like a failing brand from the get-go. The problem is that the film doesn’t convince me that the reason that she’s failing is because she’s getting roughed up by A-B. It sounds like a gimmicky product, she even sells it like a gimmicky product in the parts of the movie where she’s looking for investments ($6 mil! Holy moly. I’ll take the $800,000, please.). I don’t know. Maybe my opinion is colored by the fact that I know that New Century, who makes Moonshot, also makes Edison Light which is my second least favorite beer in the entire world (behind Leinenkugel Sunset Wheat which, I swear, tastes exactly like circus peanuts). Sorry Rhonda, I’m just not a fan. I’d feel more empathy if I thought it was a great beer.

The one moment where I really wanted to back Rhonda up was a scene in a bar, where some jackass patron who is trying the free beer she’s given him asks her, “Does your husband know you’re out here doing this?” right before another one asks, “Will this cure whiskey tits?” I never felt as bad for her as when she laughed along with them like it was all some sort of joke when by all rights those guys needed a good solid cock punch.

“Does your husband know you’re out here doing this?” Really? You sexist assbag!

Anyway – without getting lost in these details, I went into watching this with a couple of questions in my mind:

1) In retrospect, did the movie live up to the enormous amount of hype that was generated?

I think that the enormous amount of hype actually hurt this movie. It had such an onslaught of publicity that I think it needed to be Gone with the Wind to live up to the expectations of critics within the beer industry, much less traditional media. With all of the buzz, it needed to absolutely blow your mind to be treated with anything except let-down afterward. It’s really a shame. There’s a good story here and there are good messages, but because it wasn’t Citizen Kane it didn’t get the attention it deserved after release.

On the other hand, because Ms. Baron was working on getting this out without a distribution deal, because it was being released in the one-time-special-event manner that it was, I’m not sure I can come up with a better way to have marketed it. You had one shot, you had to make sure people were there or it was going to be an enormous financial loss. That’s rough.

With any luck, Warner Bros. will be able to help market it outside of the craft beer community which, frankly, is not the audience that needs to see this movie – it’s preaching to the converted.

2) Why was the BA so eager to support prior to screening it, and what, if anything, did they gain by it?

At the time of the Beer Wars release I kept asking myself: Why are so many prominent members of the BA wrapping themselves up in the promotion of this movie when, by their own admission, they have not screened it?

Watching it, it hit me: If I was filmed for a movie, and I knew that I was going to be on the big screen, I sure as hell would promo the shit out of it, too! In the grand scheme of things, they knew that the movie was going to be complimentary to their cause and their industry because they had spoken about the point of the film with Ms. Baron. At that point pushing this movie was a no-brainer; it was good publicity for yourself, your company, and the industry as a whole, regardless of whether or not the movie was brilliant.

I was surprised to find out that there were only small clips of Charlie Papazian, Greg Koch, Maureen Ogle and the Alström Brothers in this, though, considering how prominently they all featured in the promotion (and live discussion on release night). Good personalities! I’m glad they were used in the live discussion; it led me to believe that I would see more of them in the film than I did. I wish that a recording of the live discussion would have been available via Netflix.

So, what, if anything, did the BA gain? Awareness. But I think that’s it – not that that’s small. However, I feel that Beer Wars drew a harsh picture of the three-tier system and distribution that I’m not sure is necessarily in the best interest of the BA. The three-tier system and wide distribution networks have a lot to do with the fact that I’m currently able to drink Stone Arrogant Bastard and New Belgium Fat Tire here in North Carolina. Both Greg Koch (Stone) and Kim Jordan (New Belgium) were briefly featured in the film and I’m sure that they would both tell you that without distribution agreements that would not be possible.

She took a (warranted) passing shot at the tactics and bullshittery used by some distributors, but rather than doing an expose on slimy (and illegal) business practices, we got a short montage of Ms. Baron hunting for purportedly mythical Neo-Prohibitionists which, I might argue, are actually a real threat to the industry.

Overall, however, I think the BA – and the craft beer industry in general – receives a net gain here, even if just off of the first 10 minutes of the film, and the crazy freakin’ title that shows up on top of the Dogfish Head introduction segment: “Dogfish Head: 0.0002% Market Share.” I may have missed a 0 there. Regardless, it was REALLY effective.

3) What’s the best way to follow this up?

Yes, I’d like to see more. Maybe Beer Skirmishes. I’m just not a huge fan of war.

I think that, in actuality, there were 2 or 3 documentaries all smushed into one here and that either through lack of focus or lack of funding we got this movie. Here’s what I think we potentially have inside Beer Wars:

– The story of the craft beer industry, its inception and growth and a straightforward honest comparison between craft beer and BMC. ie – show off the little guys, and show just how little they are and what a disadvantage they are at without having to trash BMC. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar and all that. I suspect we’ll get a lot of this from the upcoming Beer Pioneers.

– An expose of the tactics of the less scrupulous members of the distribution industry in comparison with the distributors who are now focusing on craft and trying to play by the rules.

– A politico documentary of BMC lobbying vs. Beer Institute lobbying vs. BA lobbying. None of it’s pretty (lobbying just isn’t), but it would be fascinating to see where they differ and where they all overlap (and I’m sure they do).

Any single one of those could be a compelling documentary and some of them, if done correctly, could actually be a driving force for change in the industry. I hope that Ms. Baron will find success through her Warner Bros. distribution contract and will come away with the funding to pursue one of these topics in depth.

In verbose conclusion I say: Go forth and watch this movie. Most especially, make sure that those you know that aren’t huge beer geeks watch this movie and be ready to go to the bar and talk it over with them over a pint of good, locally made, craft beer.

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 17 Aug 2009 @ 9:16 AM 

The Greensboro Summertime Brews Festival in photos:

[nggallery id=1]

Good times. I really appreciate indoor beer festivals, and for a couple of reasons:

First off, climate control is your friend. It’s nice to be able to drink beer and NOT be in the blazing heat. The World Beer Festivals in Durham and Raleigh are some of my favorite festivals ever, but when it’s hot you can get drained pretty damn quick. It’s fairly often that I come home from the WBF with a sunburn.

Second, indoor bathrooms always win over port-a-johns.

Last of all, the most magical thing about indoor beer festivals – no smoking. No offense to smokers, but I’m here to taste the beer. Smoking kills your palate. It also kills mine, so I’m happy to taste with as few cigarettes around as possible.

Quick note for people making beer festival programs: Maps and/or booth numbers are nice. Sometimes you’re sitting around going, “Okay, I can see from this list that My Favorite Brewery is here, but where the hell are they?” and they’re hiding behind some bunting or something – maps and numbers help plan what you’re looking for.

Also? Room for notes. Good heavens – room for notes. I might even suggest putting a notes column down the side of the alphabetical list of breweries so that you can look a brewery up and write a note about the beer right there. It makes it a lot easier for people to appreciate the beer now and later.

For whatever reason, I felt like there was a higher percentage of drink-to-get-drunk people at this festival than normal, but to be honest it’s been a while since I’ve been to a smaller festival. Maybe they were just more noticeable. I always consider it a bad sign when you’ve got someone staggering around with a beer-soaked shirt and you’re only an hour or so into a four-hour session.

That said, I really quite enjoyed this. I was pleased to see that a lot of breweries took the time to roll out a special cask or keg specifically for the festival, it was quite a treat. Of particular note were:

Natty Greene’s Southern Ale, wet-hopped with fresh Cascade hops (grown in Mebane, NC) – I understand that it may be making another appearance later in the fall.

Foothills had hourly rollouts of some of their brews aged in Pappy van Winkle barrels. I missed the first two, but the Sexual Chocolate was excellent.

Olde Hickory also had an English Barleywine aged in a bourbon barrel that was excellent – far smoother than without aging – that had just a ton of wonderful vanilla character.

(Next up, I’d like to see somebody age a beer in a barrel that wasn’t used for bourbon previously.)

All in all, the beer that I took away with me the most was Holy Mackerel’s Mack in Black – I had never tried it before and was really impressed. Also saw two local(ish) breweries that I had never heard of before (Boone Brewing Company from Boone, NC and RJ Rockers from Spartanburg, SC – “Beer is Art” is a nice tagline), and was surprised to NOT see most of the North Carolina breweries, especially those who were just an hour-or-so drive away.

It was the first time I’d gone to this festival, with luck, it won’t be the last.

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 06 Apr 2009 @ 3:01 PM 

Beer Wars. Heard of it?

Hah!

From the amount of hype it’s getting, you’d swear it was Snakes on a Plane 2. I’ve seen this damn thing pop up on every beer-related blog and twitter feed on the interweb at least once, usually multiple times. Here: take a look for yourself. You’d think that everybody was getting kickbacks.

(Am I missing a kickback? Is that what’s going on? Because… I mean.. everybody has a price.)

I kinda can’t wait for April 16 to come so all this can stop, already. I can only imagine what the Beer Wars traffic is going to look like next week. Ugh.

I'd kill for a non-snake beer right now!

I'd kill for a non-snake beer right now!


You know how it is: that new movie comes out that you maybe sort of wanted to see because it’s supposed to be good, but you think it looks like it has the possibility of being kinda stupid and you were totally busy opening weekend so maybe you’ll go see it later and then your friends keep talking to you about it – DUDE! You haven’t SEEN it!? What’s WRONG with you!? It’s like the BEST movie EVAR!!1! And then the last possible thing you want to do is see that movie?

That’s me and Beer Wars.

Sure. It’s probably great and has a lot of merit. It certainly appears to be striving to make a solid point: That craft brewers have a lot to struggle against in the beer market due to over-regulation and the existence of a few large mutlinationals with deep pockets. That’s great. To me, it looks a bit like a fanboy documentary about craft brewing that is targeted at craft brewing fanboys overlayed with a big gimmicky kind of release that has the balls to be on a Thursday evening. I can’t go see it even if I was buying into the hype. Why? Because it’s playing in a theater 40 minutes away from me on a Thursday evening. I mean.. sure.. I also have to go pick a relative up at the airport and play in a softball game. You know why? Thursday. Shit happens on Thursdays and then I have to work on Friday morning.

Anyway, what I, or most people, know about Beer Wars, is pretty much summed up on the synopsis page of the Beer Wars site. A little more, perhaps not very complimentary, is available by reading through a review by the Boston Globe’s Alex Beam.

As far as I can tell, what I noted above pretty much sums up the movie. Watch the trailer, it’s well edited and carries the message quite well. The little guys fight the big guys. That’s the premise. As the poster children for this fight, Ms. Baron has chosen the one of the most successful craft breweries in the country, Dogfish Head and media darling Sam Calagione (man, do people love Sam Calagione), and co-founder of the largest craft brewery in the country (Sam Adams), Rhonda Kallman, now of New Century Brewing. Both are fascinating choices, given that they have each been quite successful in carving out their niche and can actually compete with the megabreweries in ways that many small breweries can’t even fathom. Kallman is an even more interesting choice as Edison Light, the main product of New Century, is one of a very, very small list of beers that actually competes directly with what the megabreweries make. She, unlike Calagione, really is trying to sell against Bud Light.

The unfortunate part of this movie, I think, is the choice to portray this as a battle, or a war. Here’s a reality in small business, regardless of product: There is a large multinational out there that you will have to compete against. They make their product in a way which will maximize profits, that is how they became a large conglomerate. You, as a small business, actually do not directly compete with them. You cater to a niche market that appreciates hand-crafted or personally made products. You will never be able to do this AND compete with said large company. Why? Because in order to compete, you will also need to make your product in a way which will maximize profits, and you will then no longer have hand-crafted or personally made products. This is a phenomenon that is not unique to beer in any way. It is a point that I feel is missed by portraying this is some sort of fever-pitched battle. It is a “war” that cannot be won, because it cannot be fought; as soon as you are in the position to really fight the battle, you’re fighting on the wrong side.

The plight of the craft brewery, as far as I’m concerned, is much more about getting out from under the heavy thumb of distribution and neo-Prohibitionist laws, but that doesn’t tell a very good story.

Greg Koch of Stone posted a small excerpt/concept of his upcoming keynote address at the Craft Brewers Conference on his twitter feed.

“If you intentionally serve beers that you do not respect, you are an enabler of keeping people in their uninformed comfort zones. “

Hear, hear. Maybe they know more about it than I do, but it seems like all of these breweries throwing their weight behind the unmitigated hype of Beer Wars, but not also throwing a bone at, say, Beer Pioneers (which I am really excited to see), feels like a bit of a contradiction. I just hope Beer Wars lives up to the hype and is truly awesome. I’ll apparently never get to find out.

As a personal aside: I’ve actually been struggling with posting this. What kind of reaction is this going to garner? If I don’t hop on the Beer Wars bandwagon am I going to get blackballed by the very industry that I’m attempting to be a part of because I find this level of hype distasteful? Let’s hope not. Admittedly, there have been others that have seriously discussed the film, or what it means to the industry instead of just re-trumpeting blind calls to go watch it (Andy Crouch comes immediately to mind, I’m sure there are others), but they have the advantage of being well-known and respected voices in the industry. I may well be the jackass that tried to pop in on everybody’s radar just in time to try to shoot down their favorite pet project. Time will tell. In the meantime, I’ll have a beer.

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Categories: industry, media, news, op-ed
Posted By: erik
Last Edit: 06 Apr 2009 @ 03 01 PM

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